Your First Batch of Wine: The Complete Day-by-Day Walkthrough

Why This Guide Exists

Most winemaking guides assume you already know things. They skip steps. They say "rack the wine" without explaining what racking is or how to do it without making a mess. They tell you to "check your SG" without mentioning that you need to sanitize the hydrometer first.

This guide assumes you know nothing. Every single step is spelled out, with measurements, temperatures, and timing. Follow it from top to bottom and you will produce drinkable wine on your very first attempt. We are making a 5-gallon batch of red wine from fresh grapes — roughly 25-30 bottles.

The Complete Shopping List (5-Gallon Batch)

Buy everything before you start. There is nothing worse than realizing you are missing yeast nutrient at 10 PM on crushing day. Here is every single item you need, with approximate costs.

Consumables (Used Up Each Batch)

Item	Quantity	Approx. Cost	Where to Buy
Wine grapes (fresh, ripe)	80-100 lbs	$60-150	Local vineyard, homebrew shop, or grape broker (fall harvest season)
Wine yeast (Lalvin RC212 or EC-1118)	1 packet (5g)	$3-5	Homebrew shop or online
Yeast nutrient (Fermaid-O or DAP)	1 oz	$4-6	Homebrew shop
Potassium metabisulfite (or Campden tablets)	2 oz (or 30 tablets)	$4-6	Homebrew shop
Star San sanitizer	4 oz bottle	$8-10	Homebrew shop (lasts many batches)
Corks (#9 natural or agglomerated)	30	$8-12	Homebrew shop
Consumables subtotal		$87-189

Equipment (Reusable Batch After Batch)

Equipment	Purpose	Approx. Cost	Notes
Primary fermenter (7.9 gal food-grade bucket with lid)	Crushing, primary fermentation	$15-25	Must be food-grade. Wide opening is essential for punch-downs.
Glass carboy (5-6 gallon)	Secondary fermentation and aging	$30-50	Two carboys is ideal (one to rack into). Glass preferred over plastic.
Airlock and bung (rubber stopper)	Lets CO2 out, keeps oxygen and bugs out	$3-5	Buy two or three. They are cheap and you will want spares.
Hydrometer and test jar	Measures sugar (SG/Brix) and tracks fermentation	$10-15	Your single most important instrument. Treat it gently — they break easily.
Auto-siphon and tubing (5/16" ID)	Transferring wine between vessels	$12-18	Auto-siphon is far easier than a plain racking cane. Worth every penny.
Thermometer (stick-on or digital probe)	Monitoring fermentation temperature	$5-10	Stick-on LCD strip on the fermenter works fine for beginners.
Double-lever corker	Inserting corks into bottles	$20-35	Floor corker ($50-70) is better but not necessary for your first batch.
Wine bottles (standard 750ml)	Final storage	$15-30 (or free)	Save empties from store-bought wine. Must be proper wine bottles, not beer.
Large spoon or paddle (food-grade plastic or stainless)	Stirring must, punch-downs	$5-8	Long handle preferred. Never use wooden spoons — they harbor bacteria.
Funnel (food-grade)	Pouring into carboy neck	$3-5	A wide-mouth funnel with a strainer screen is ideal.
Equipment subtotal		$118-201

WEEK BEFORE: Preparation

Do not skip this week. Preparation is the difference between a smooth, enjoyable winemaking day and a frantic, stressful disaster.

Sanitization Practice (Do This First)

1. Mix your Star San. Add 1 oz of Star San to 5 gallons of water in your primary fermenter. Stir gently. The solution will foam — that is normal and the foam itself is a sanitizer. This solution stays effective for weeks if kept sealed.
2. Practice sanitizing each piece of equipment. Submerge your hydrometer, airlock, bung, spoon, siphon, and funnel. Contact time: 30 seconds minimum. Pull them out and let them drip-dry. Do not rinse — Star San is no-rinse.
3. Fill a spray bottle with the same Star San solution. This is your constant companion on winemaking day. Spray anything before it touches your wine.
4. Sanitize the fermenter itself. Pour the Star San solution around the inside, swirl to coat all surfaces, then drain. Do not rinse.

Workspace Setup

1. Choose your fermentation spot. You need a room that stays between 65-80°F (18-27°C) with no direct sunlight. A basement, spare room, or closet works well. Avoid the garage in summer — too hot.
2. Protect the floor. Lay down plastic sheeting or an old tarp. Grape juice stains everything permanently.
3. Set up a table at waist height. You will be crushing grapes here. Working on the floor kills your back.
4. Clear space for the fermenter. Once fermentation starts, you do not want to move the bucket. Pick its spot now.

Sourcing Grapes

1. Contact local vineyards or homebrew shops in late summer. In North America, wine grapes are harvested August through October depending on region and variety.
2. Order early. Popular varieties sell out. Place your order 2-4 weeks before harvest.
3. Plan for 80-100 lbs of grapes for a 5-gallon batch (approximately 25-30 bottles). This accounts for the weight of stems, skins, and seeds that you will discard.
4. Ask the grower for harvest data — Brix reading, pH, and variety. This helps you plan any adjustments.

DAY 0: Crushing and Destemming

This is the big day. Set aside 3-4 hours. You will be sticky, stained, and tired — and it is deeply satisfying.

Step-by-Step

1. Sanitize everything that will touch the grapes: primary fermenter, spoon, hydrometer, test jar, funnel, and your hands. Spray with Star San. Let drip-dry.
2. Destem the grapes. Pull grape clusters off the main stem by hand. You want individual berries falling into the fermenter, not large stems. Small bits of stem are fine — they add some tannin. Large stems add harsh, green bitterness.
3. Crush the grapes. Use clean hands, a sanitized potato masher, or a food-grade crushing device. Break every grape so juice flows freely. Do not pulverize — you want broken skins, not grape smoothie. Leave seeds intact (crushed seeds release harsh, bitter oils).
4. Measure the Brix/SG. Pull a sample of juice (avoiding skins) into your test jar. Float the hydrometer and read the scale at the liquid surface.
   • Target Brix: 24-26° (equivalent to SG 1.100-1.110) for approximately 13-14% alcohol.
   • If Brix is below 22°, add table sugar: approximately 1.5 oz of sugar per gallon raises Brix by 1°.
   • If Brix is above 28°, add water cautiously — 1 cup per gallon lowers Brix by roughly 1°.
5. Check pH (if you have strips or a meter).
   • Target pH: 3.4-3.6 for reds.
   • If pH is above 3.7, add tartaric acid: 1 g/L lowers pH by approximately 0.1.
   • If pH is below 3.2, your wine will taste sharp. Add potassium bicarbonate: 1 g/L raises pH by approximately 0.1.
6. Add sulfite (SO2). Crush 5 Campden tablets (one per gallon) and stir into the must. Or add 1/4 teaspoon of potassium metabisulfite powder (50 ppm). This stuns wild yeast and bacteria, giving your chosen yeast a clean start.
7. Cover the fermenter with a loose-fitting lid or clean towel secured with a bungee cord. Do not seal it airtight — you want the SO2 gas to escape overnight.
8. Record everything. Write down: date, grape variety, weight, Brix, pH, SG, SO2 addition, temperature. This is the start of your batch log.

DAY 1: Yeast Pitching

At least 12 hours after adding sulfite (24 hours is better), you add the yeast. The SO2 has done its job — wild organisms are suppressed, and the sulfite has partially dissipated. Now it is time to introduce the yeast that will actually make your wine.

Rehydrating the Yeast

1. Heat 50ml (about 1/4 cup) of clean water to 104°F (40°C). Use a thermometer — precision matters here. Too hot kills the yeast. Too cold and they will not activate.
2. Sprinkle the yeast packet over the surface of the water. Do not stir yet. Let it sit for 15 minutes to rehydrate.
3. After 15 minutes, stir gently until smooth. The mixture should look creamy and slightly foamy.
4. Temperature-match. Check the temperature of both the yeast slurry and the must. They should be within 10°F (5°C) of each other. If the must is much cooler than the yeast, add a small splash of must to the yeast cup, wait 5 minutes, then repeat until temperatures are close.
5. Add yeast nutrient. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of Fermaid-O (or 1/2 teaspoon of DAP) in a small amount of warm water and add it to the must. This provides nitrogen that the yeast needs for a clean, healthy fermentation. Stir into the must.
6. Pitch the yeast. Pour the yeast slurry into the must. Stir gently for 30 seconds to distribute. Re-cover the fermenter.

DAYS 2-3: Cap Management

Within 12-24 hours of pitching yeast, you will see signs of life. The surface of the must will start to foam slightly, and the grape skins will rise to form a thick "cap" floating on top of the liquid. This cap must be managed.

Why the Cap Matters

CO2 produced by fermentation pushes grape skins to the surface, forming a dense mat. If you leave it alone, the cap dries out, becomes a breeding ground for acetobacter (vinegar bacteria), and fails to extract the color, tannin, and flavor locked in the skins. Punching it down is not optional.

Punch-Down Procedure

1. Sanitize your spoon or paddle with Star San spray before every punch-down. Every time — no exceptions.
2. Push the cap down into the liquid using firm, steady pressure. Break it up completely so all skins are submerged. You are not stirring violently — just submerging the skins back into the juice.
3. Frequency: 2-3 times per day. Morning, evening, and optionally midday. Set phone alarms. Consistency matters more than force.
4. Note the temperature on the fermenter's stick-on thermometer each time you punch down. Write it in your log.

Temperature Monitoring

Temperature Range	What Happens	Action
Below 60°F (16°C)	Fermentation stalls or never starts	Move to a warmer room. Wrap fermenter in a blanket.
65-75°F (18-24°C)	Good range. Slow, clean fermentation with balanced extraction.	No action needed. Ideal for most beginners.
75-85°F (24-29°C)	Active fermentation. More extraction, bigger body, fruitier aromas.	Acceptable for reds. Monitor closely above 80°F.
Above 85°F (29°C)	Risk of yeast stress, off-flavors, stuck fermentation.	Cool immediately. Place a frozen water bottle in the must. Move to a cooler room.

DAYS 4-7: Active Fermentation

This is peak fermentation. Your fermenter is working hard, CO2 is bubbling vigorously, and the alcohol level is climbing. Your job now is to monitor, punch down, and start taking daily measurements.

Daily SG Readings

1. Sanitize your hydrometer and test jar with Star San before each reading.
2. Pull a sample of liquid (not skins) from below the cap. Use a sanitized ladle or wine thief.
3. Fill the test jar about 80% full. Drop in the hydrometer and let it bob freely.
4. Read the specific gravity at the liquid surface (not the top of the meniscus). Record in your log.
5. Record the temperature of the sample. Hydrometers are calibrated at 60°F (15.5°C). If your sample is warmer, the actual SG is slightly higher than the reading.

What to Expect

Day	Expected SG Range	What You Should See
Day 0 (crushing)	1.095-1.110	Sweet juice, no bubbling
Day 1 (after pitching)	1.090-1.105	Minimal activity, slight fizzing
Day 2	1.075-1.095	Visible bubbling, cap forming
Day 3	1.060-1.080	Vigorous fermentation, strong cap
Day 4	1.040-1.060	Peak activity, warmest temperature
Day 5	1.025-1.045	Still active, cap slightly thinner
Day 6	1.015-1.030	Slowing down, less foam
Day 7	1.005-1.020	Noticeably calmer, approaching press decision

Temperature Log Template

Keep this taped to your fermenter or in a notebook beside it.

Date/Time	SG Reading	Temperature	Cap Punch-Down?	Notes
(Day 0, AM)	1.100	68°F	N/A	Crushed 90 lbs Merlot. Added 5 Campden tabs.
(Day 1, PM)	1.098	70°F	Yes	Pitched RC212 yeast. Added 1 tsp Fermaid-O.
(Day 2, AM)	---	72°F	Yes	First signs of bubbling. Cap forming.
(Fill in daily...)

DAY 7-10: The Pressing Decision

When to press is one of the most important decisions in your first batch. Press too early and you leave color and flavor behind. Press too late and you extract harsh, bitter tannins.

When to Press

• Primary guideline: press when SG reaches 1.010-1.000. At this point, roughly 90% of the sugar has been converted to alcohol, and the remaining fermentation can finish in the carboy.
• Taste the must. It should taste like young, rough wine — tannic, fruity, and slightly sweet. If it tastes excessively bitter or astringent, press sooner.
• Total skin contact time: 5-10 days is typical for a first-batch red. Shorter for lighter reds (Pinot Noir: 5-7 days), longer for bigger reds (Cabernet: 7-14 days).

Pressing Technique (Without a Press)

You do not need a fruit press for your first batch. Here is how to do it with equipment you already have.

1. Sanitize a second vessel — either your carboy or a clean bucket.
2. Place a sanitized strainer or mesh bag over the mouth of the vessel (or inside a funnel).
3. Scoop the skins and seeds into the strainer using a sanitized ladle. Let the free-run juice drain through.
4. Press the remaining skins gently with your sanitized hands (wearing food-safe gloves) or the back of the ladle. Squeeze to extract juice but do not wring or crush seeds.
5. Combine the free-run and press-run wine in the carboy. The press-run will be darker and more tannic — this is normal.
6. Fill the carboy to within 2 inches of the bung. Attach airlock filled with Star San solution or clean water.

DAY 10-14: Settling in Secondary

Your wine is now in a carboy with an airlock. Fermentation continues slowly — you will see an occasional bubble through the airlock, maybe one every 30-60 seconds. A thick layer of sediment (gross lees) will form at the bottom within days. This is dead yeast, grape particles, and other solids.

What to Do

1. Leave it alone for 7-10 days. Resist the urge to open, taste, or disturb it.
2. Check the airlock daily. Make sure it still has liquid in it. If it dries out, refill with Star San solution. An empty airlock lets oxygen in.
3. Monitor temperature. Keep it at 65-75°F (18-24°C). Consistent is more important than precise.
4. Around day 10-14 (about a week after pressing), the gross lees will have compacted into a thick layer. It is time for your first rack.

First Racking (Off Gross Lees)

1. Sanitize a second carboy (or a bucket, then back into the cleaned original carboy).
2. Place the full carboy on a table and the empty vessel on the floor below it. Gravity is your pump.
3. Sanitize the auto-siphon and tubing.
4. Insert the racking cane into the wine, keeping the tip above the sediment layer. Start the siphon.
5. Transfer the clear wine into the clean vessel. Stop siphoning when you see sediment being pulled up. Leave the sludge behind — it is better to lose a small amount of wine than to carry sediment over.
6. Top up the carboy to within 1-2 inches of the bung. Use a similar wine (cheap Merlot from the store works) if you do not have enough to fill it. Minimizing headspace is critical.
7. Reattach the airlock.

WEEK 3-4: First Major Racking, MLF Decision, SO2

By now, fermentation should be complete or very nearly so. Check by taking an SG reading — it should be at or below 0.998. If it reads the same for three consecutive days, fermentation is done.

Malolactic Fermentation (MLF) Decision

MLF is a secondary bacterial fermentation that converts sharp malic acid into softer lactic acid. Almost all commercial red wines undergo MLF. For your first batch, you have two options:

Option	What to Do	Result	Best For
Skip MLF (simpler)	Add SO2 now: 1/4 tsp potassium metabisulfite per 5 gallons. This prevents MLF from starting.	Wine retains brighter, sharper acidity. Fruitier character.	First-time winemakers who want simplicity. Lighter reds.
Do MLF (better for reds)	Inoculate with a commercial MLB culture (Chr. Hansen VP41 or similar). Do NOT add SO2 until MLF is complete (4-8 weeks).	Wine is smoother, rounder, less acidic. More complex.	Fuller-bodied reds (Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah). Worth the wait.

SO2 Addition (if Skipping MLF)

1. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of potassium metabisulfite in 2 tablespoons of warm water.
2. Add to the wine and stir gently (avoiding splashing) with a sanitized spoon.
3. This adds approximately 30-40 ppm of free SO2, which protects against oxidation and microbial spoilage.

MONTH 2-3: Monitoring and Second Racking

Your wine is aging. There is less to do now, but do not neglect it.

Monthly Checklist

1. Check the airlock weekly. Refill if low. An empty airlock for even 24 hours can cause oxidation damage.
2. Check for new sediment. If a visible layer has formed (more than 1/4 inch), it is time for another racking.
3. Take a taste. Use a sanitized wine thief or turkey baster. The wine will taste rough, tannic, and young. That is completely normal. You are tasting for obvious faults — vinegar smell (acetic acid), rotten eggs (hydrogen sulfide), or nail polish remover (ethyl acetate).
4. Check the temperature. Keep it at 55-68°F (13-20°C) during aging. Cooler is better for slow, graceful development.

Second Racking

At approximately 6-8 weeks after pressing, perform a second racking using the same siphon technique as before. This removes the fine lees that settled after the first racking. Add another 1/4 teaspoon of potassium metabisulfite to maintain SO2 levels. Top up the carboy completely.

Tasting Notes to Record

Attribute	What to Note	What It Tells You
Color	Deep purple, ruby, garnet, brick-red?	Depth indicates extraction. Browning suggests oxidation.
Aroma	Fruity, yeasty, sulfury, vinegary?	Yeastiness fades with time. Sulfur or vinegar is a problem.
Acidity	Sharp, balanced, flat?	Too sharp may need MLF or time. Flat may need acid addition.
Tannin	Drying, grippy, soft, absent?	High tannin softens with aging. Very low may need oak.
Body	Thin, medium, full?	Reflects alcohol, extract, and glycerol levels.
Finish	Short, medium, long?	Longer finish generally indicates better quality.

MONTH 3-6: Aging, Stabilization, and Fining

Patience. This is where your wine transforms from "rough fermented grape juice" into "actual wine." The tannins polymerize and soften. The aroma shifts from primary fruit to more complex, developed notes. The color stabilizes.

Aging

1. Keep the carboy in a cool, dark place. 55-65°F (13-18°C) is ideal. Darkness protects against light-strike (a stale, skunky off-flavor caused by UV exposure).
2. Check the airlock monthly. Top up with Star San or water as needed.
3. Taste every 4-6 weeks. Note the changes in your log. You should notice the wine becoming smoother, the fruit becoming more integrated, and the rough edges rounding out.
4. Optional: add oak. If you want complexity, add 1-2 oz of medium-toast oak spirals or chips per 5 gallons. Taste weekly — oak flavor develops fast. Remove when you like the level (usually 2-6 weeks).

Stabilization

Before bottling, you need to ensure the wine is stable — no more fermentation, no haze-forming proteins, no tartrate crystals forming in the bottle.

1. Confirm fermentation is complete. SG should be 0.995-0.998 and stable for at least two weeks. If the SG is still dropping, fermentation is still active — do not bottle.
2. Cold stabilize (optional but recommended). If you can, place the carboy in a refrigerator or unheated garage (below 40°F / 4°C) for 2-3 weeks. This forces tartrate crystals to precipitate out now rather than in the bottle. Rack off the crystals.
3. Add a final SO2 dose. 1/4 teaspoon potassium metabisulfite per 5 gallons before bottling. This gives the wine protection in the bottle.

Fining (If Needed)

If your wine is still hazy after 3-4 months of aging and racking, you may want to fine it.

Fining Agent	What It Removes	How to Use	Wait Time
Bentonite (clay)	Protein haze, heat-unstable proteins	Hydrate 1 tsp in 1/2 cup hot water, stir into wine	5-7 days, then rack
Gelatin	Excess tannin, harsh bitterness	Dissolve 1/2 tsp in warm water, add to wine	5-10 days, then rack
Sparkolloid	General haze, suspended particles	Boil 1 tsp in 1 cup water for 15 min, add hot to wine	1-2 weeks, then rack

BOTTLING DAY: Complete Procedure

This is the finish line. Set aside 2-3 hours. You will need a helper — one person fills, one person corks. It goes much faster with two.

Pre-Bottling Checklist

1. Confirm the wine is clear. Hold a flashlight behind the carboy. You should be able to see light through the wine without haze. If it is hazy, fine first (see above) and wait another 1-2 weeks.
2. Confirm fermentation is complete. SG should be stable at 0.995-0.998 for at least two weeks. Bottling wine that is still fermenting will create pressure in the bottle — corks pop out or bottles explode.
3. Add final SO2. If you have not added sulfite in the last 4-6 weeks, add 1/4 teaspoon potassium metabisulfite per 5 gallons. Stir gently and wait 24 hours before bottling.
4. Prepare 25-30 clean wine bottles. Wash with hot water and unscented detergent. Rinse thoroughly.
5. Soak corks. Place #9 corks in a bowl of warm Star San solution for 10-15 minutes to soften them. Do not boil corks — it damages them.

Bottling Step-by-Step

1. Sanitize everything: bottles (spray inside with Star San), siphon, tubing, bottle filler (if using), and your hands.
2. Place the carboy on a table. Arrange empty bottles on the floor below.
3. Start the siphon. Attach a spring-tip bottle filler to the end of the tubing if you have one — it stops flow when you lift the bottle off the tip. If not, use a tubing clamp to control flow.
4. Fill each bottle to about 1 inch below where the bottom of the cork will sit. This leaves approximately 3/4 inch of air space (ullage) when the cork is inserted.
5. Cork immediately after filling. Place the bottle in the corker, position a damp cork, and press down firmly. The cork should sit flush with the bottle top or just slightly below.
6. Stand bottles upright for 3 days. This allows the cork to expand and seal fully. Then store on their sides so the cork stays moist.
7. Label your bottles. At minimum, write: grape variety, vintage year, and bottling date. You will forget which batch is which surprisingly fast.

Daily Log Template: What to Record and Why

A winemaking log is not busywork. It is the only way to replicate a successful batch or diagnose a failed one. Winemakers who do not keep records make the same mistakes indefinitely. Here is what to record at each stage.

Batch Information (Record Once)

Field	Example	Why It Matters
Grape variety	Merlot	Different varieties behave differently. Track what works for you.
Source / vineyard	Smith Family Vineyards, Lodi CA	Grape quality varies by source. Find a good supplier and stick with them.
Weight of grapes	92 lbs	Determines yield. Helps you plan future batches.
Starting Brix / SG	25.2° Brix / 1.107 SG	Predicts final alcohol. Indicates grape ripeness.
Starting pH	3.52	Affects fermentation health, color stability, and aging.
Yeast strain	Lalvin RC212	Different yeasts produce different flavor profiles.
Date crushed	Sept 28, 2026	Anchor for your entire timeline.

Daily Fermentation Log (Record Every Day)

Date	Day #	SG	Temp (°F)	Punch-Downs	Additions	Notes / Observations
Sept 28	0	1.107	68	N/A	5 Campden tabs	Crushed and destemmed. Must smells fresh and fruity.
Sept 29	1	1.105	69	1x	RC212 yeast, 1 tsp Fermaid-O	Pitched yeast at 4 PM. Slight fizzing by evening.
Sept 30	2	1.088	73	3x	None	Active bubbling. Thick cap. Color deepening.
Oct 1	3	1.065	76	3x	1 tsp Fermaid-O	Vigorous fermentation. Room smells like a winery.
...	...	...	...	...	...	Continue daily until pressing.

Post-Fermentation Log (Record at Each Event)

Date	Event	SG	SO2 Added?	Notes
Oct 6	Pressed, transferred to carboy	1.002	No	Yielded ~5.5 gal. Color deep ruby.
Oct 14	First racking (off gross lees)	0.997	No	Thick sediment left behind. Topped up with Merlot.
Oct 28	Second racking + SO2	0.996	1/4 tsp K-meta	Wine clearing nicely. Less sediment this time.
Dec 15	Third racking + tasting	0.995	1/4 tsp K-meta	Tannins softening. Fruit developing. Added oak spirals.
Jan 10	Removed oak, taste check	0.995	No	Nice oak integration. Ready to plan bottling.
Feb 1	Bottling day	0.995	1/4 tsp K-meta (24 hrs prior)	Bottled 27 bottles. Clear, garnet color. Firm tannins.

Troubleshooting Your First Batch

Things will not go perfectly. They never do, even for experienced winemakers. Here are the problems first-timers encounter most often, what causes them, and exactly what to do.

Problem	Symptoms	Likely Cause	Solution
Fermentation never starts	No bubbling 48+ hours after pitching yeast	Dead yeast, too much SO2, must too cold, or forgot to pitch yeast	Check temperature (must be above 60°F). Wait 24 more hours. If still nothing, re-pitch with a fresh packet of yeast. No additional SO2.
Fermentation stops early (stuck)	SG stalls above 1.010, no bubbling	Temperature too high or low, nutrient deficiency, alcohol toxicity	Gently stir to resuspend yeast. Move to 70-75°F room. Add 1 tsp yeast nutrient. If still stuck after 48 hrs, pitch EC-1118 (a vigorous restart yeast).
Rotten egg smell (H2S)	Sulfur/rotten egg aroma during or after fermentation	Yeast nutrient deficiency (most common), stressed yeast	During fermentation: add 1 tsp DAP, stir vigorously to release gas. After fermentation: rack and splash to aerate. If persistent, add 1 Campden tablet per gallon and rack again.
Vinegar smell	Sharp, acetic acid aroma	Acetobacter contamination from poor sanitation or excessive oxygen exposure	If mild, add SO2 (1/4 tsp K-meta per 5 gal) and minimize oxygen. If strong (volatile acidity above 0.8 g/L), the wine cannot be saved. Sanitize better next time.
Wine is too sweet	Noticeable sweetness, SG above 1.000	Stuck fermentation (see above)	Restart fermentation. Do not bottle sweet wine unless you add potassium sorbate to prevent re-fermentation in the bottle.
Wine is too acidic / sour	Sharp, puckering taste, pH below 3.2	High-acid grapes, no MLF	Add potassium bicarbonate (1 g/L). Or perform MLF to convert malic acid to softer lactic acid. Or cold stabilize to precipitate tartrates.
Wine is hazy / cloudy	Persistent cloudiness after 2+ months	Protein instability, pectin haze, suspended yeast	Add bentonite (1 tsp hydrated per 5 gal). Wait 1-2 weeks, rack. For pectin haze, add pectic enzyme (1/2 tsp per 5 gal).
Oxidized wine	Brown color, flat/sherry-like aroma, stale taste	Excessive oxygen from headspace, empty airlock, or splashy racking	Mild oxidation: add SO2, minimize headspace, age. Severe oxidation: cannot be fully reversed. Prevention is key — keep carboys topped up, airlocks filled, rack gently.
Mold on surface	White, gray, or green fuzzy patches floating on wine	Film yeast or mold from oxygen exposure, usually in carboy with too much headspace	Carefully skim off mold without letting it mix in. Rack to a clean, sanitized carboy. Add SO2. Top up to eliminate headspace. If mold has penetrated the wine (off taste), it may be beyond saving.
Cork won't go in	Cork sticks, breaks, or won't compress enough	Corks not soaked, corker misaligned, wrong cork size	Soak corks in warm Star San for 15-20 minutes. Use #9 corks with a double-lever or floor corker. Do not use #8 corks (too loose) or #10 (too tight for hand corkers).

The Complete Timeline at a Glance

When	What Happens	Key Action	Duration
Week Before	Preparation	Sanitize, set up workspace, source grapes	1-2 hours
Day 0	Crushing & destemming	Crush grapes, measure Brix/pH, add SO2	3-4 hours
Day 1	Yeast pitching	Rehydrate yeast, pitch, add nutrients	30 minutes
Days 2-3	Early fermentation	Punch-downs 2-3x daily, temp monitoring	10 min/session
Days 4-7	Active fermentation	Punch-downs, daily SG readings	15 min/day
Day 7-10	Pressing	Press skins, transfer to carboy	1-2 hours
Day 10-14	Settling	Leave alone, check airlock	2 min/day
Week 2-3	First racking	Rack off gross lees	30-45 minutes
Week 3-4	MLF decision + SO2	Add SO2 or inoculate MLB	15 minutes
Month 2-3	Second racking + monitoring	Rack, add SO2, taste	30-45 minutes
Month 3-6	Aging	Check airlock monthly, taste, optional oak	5 min/week
Bottling Day	Bottling	Sanitize, siphon, cork, label	2-3 hours